“What if a dog pees on you?” November 4, 2009

“What if a dog pees on you?” that is one of the questions an audience member posed to me during the Q&A portion of a presentation I gave yesterday. In fact, all of the audience members, the first graders at Rashkis Elementary School, were attentive and asked me a lot of great questions. I was part of a speaker series featuring community helpers. I described my job by saying that dogs have feelings and thoughts, but they don’t have words; my job is to help people teach dogs some words, and to help people understand better what dogs are trying to say to us. I told them how important it is to be gentle and safe with dogs. For example, they should never touch a dog who is eating out of a bowl, who is lying down, or who has something in his or her mouth. What if the dog has your homework in his mouth? “Ask a grown-up for help.”

We talked about our dogs at home, at our friend’s house, and in our neighborhood, and how to be respectful of dogs so they don’t become frightened or upset, which can lead to a bite. We covered the ABC’s of Dog Safety, and Buddy the Dog helped demonstrate the right way to pet a dog. Several of the children had been previously taught to extend a hand for a dog to sniff.I explained that this is outdated, old-timey advice. And that’s ok, we learn new and better ways to do things all the time. I asked the children if it’s ok to cough into our hands. (You would have thought I had asked them whether it was ok to start a forest fire!) “No!” they exclaimed, and showed me how to cough into my elbow. So I compared that old advice about preventing the spread of germs to the old advice about sticking our hands in a dog’s face. Now we know better; the dog can already smell us, it is better to just stand still, and if the dog approaches us, pet him under the chin or on the chest. If he doesn’t approach, don’t touch.

One little boy asked me, “How do you train a dog?” (Some of the teachers really perked up for that one.) I told him we make a list of all the things the dog really likes. Then we show the dog what we want him to do. When he does what we want, he gets surprised with something he really likes, so that he will soon do the thing we want any time we ask. Buddy demonstrated (sort of, he’s not very bendy) how we would train a dog to sit by rewarding him with a treat. I then asked the little boy what his favorite thing was. “Pepperoni!” was the reply. And then he agreed he would be happy to clean his room if he got pepperoni as a reward for doing so. I can’t help wondering what his parents must have thought when he reported about his day: “The community helper said if I clean my room you will give me pepperoni.” Of course I would not want to bribe a dog to train him; rewards are what effective dog training is all about. But I may have to wait for the kids to hit second grade before I explain the difference.

I think little kids ask the most profound questions. It was so much fun to spend time with all of them, to see their art work on the walls, to hear about their dogs at home, and to think back to how much I enjoyed learning as a kid, and still do every day. I swear I have the best job in the world.

Oh, and if a dog pees on you, you will need a new pair of shoes.

I Hope You’re Sitting Down for This October 22, 2009

If you have a dog, you have probably had a furniture issue at some point. Maybe you’ve had trouble keeping your dog off the furniture when you’re using it, keeping him off it when you’re not at home to supervise, teaching him to use only a particular piece of furniture, trying to get him out from under the furniture, or keeping the furniture free of hair, not to mention free of teeth. We like our dogs, we like our furniture, and sometimes these two things together create problems.

In terms of teaching your dog rules about getting on the furniture, you have many choices. I provide a few options below, plus their effects on your furniture. Whichever way you decide to go, your dog will be neither deprived nor ruined. Just be consistent. Regular readers will recognize the recurring theme of preventing dog behavior you don’t want and rewarding behavior you do want:

Allowing your dog access to any piece of furniture, anytime

Training difficulty: Pretty easy to teach once they figure out how comfy it is up there. And no, allowing your dog on the furniture will not make him dominant, homicidal, or spoiled. But if you have a new dog or puppy, I do not recommend starting with this. That’s simply because you don’t know each other yet and you haven’t had the chance to establish any boundaries and rules. To help your dog develop into a polite family member, it is best to make sure your dog listens well, understands boundaries, and has the training and self-control skills that are important to you. Once that’s established, you’ll be able to make more places and activities available. I also recommend teaching a simple cue to get your dog off the furniture in case your Aunt Betty would like to have a seat. To teach that, say your cue word like “off,” then pat your leg to encourage your dog down. If he’s reluctant, say the cue then bowl a dog biscuit away from the couch. He’ll soon respond to the cue and hand motion that went with bowling the treat.

Keep in mind: If your dog growls or otherwise threatens people when he’s on the couch or bed, he is not a good candidate for this option. He is likely guarding the bed or anticipating being touched. Get professional help with any underlying pain or anxiety.

Furniture consequences: Hair, drool, claw marks, hair, odor, hair. Use a throw blanket that you can launder and easily remove when you have guests.

Keeping your dog off your furniture, all the time

Training difficulty: This is the second easiest option to teach, because it is one of the least confusing (“never” is pretty straight-forward!). If you have a dog with back pain or who is recovering from surgery, your veterinarian may tell you furniture is off-limits to your dog.

The idea here is to a) prevent furniture climbing and b) reward lying elsewhere (like the floor or a dog bed). It is incredibly useful to have an exercise pen handy for this. I find it speeds the transition for a new puppy or dog tremendously. Even if you don’t have an x-pen (as they are called for short), make sure your pooch has a chewy down on the floor before he is tempted to get on the couch. If he likes to lie down on a very soft surface, provide him a cushy dog bed so the couch won’t tempt him as much. Initially you can tether him to a heavy piece of furniture within range of the dog bed (provided you’ll be present). If you do this whenever you are seated on the sofa, at the computer, or at the table, you will condition him to occupy himself quietly at those times. If you are consistent, it will become a habit for him.

To prevent him from leaping onto the sofa when you first enter the room, have him drag a lightweight line or light leash for a week or so. Be ready to step on the line to prevent him bolting for the couch, and then direct him to his bed or place near the couch he can work on his chew toy.

If you are already seated and he enters the living room, be ready; don’t wait to see what he’s going to do next. Call him to you with a treat held down near the floor. You can also teach him to nose touch—-ask him to do that before he has a chance to consider the couch. Try having your dog do a couple of sits and downs to help him get the ants out of his pants before encouraging him onto his dog bed and tethering with a chewy. You can also imagine you are a soccer goalie, and physically block the couch with your body. Slide or move left and right if your dog tries to get by you (no need to say anything, it will just distract him). Many dogs get the message after a few attempts and decide it’s less trouble just to lie beside the couch.

During the training process, which depending on the dog might be a couple of weeks or less, prevent access to the furniture when you can’t supervise. Crate your dog, close the living room door, or use baby gates to prevent access.

Furniture consequences: Your guests will hardly know you have a dog.

Allowing your dog one piece of furniture

Training difficulty:  This is the trickiest option to teach. Follow the guidelines for never being allowed on the furniture, but with the following exception: Teach your dog to ask for permission to get up on the allowed piece of furniture. Have him sit, and release with “Ok!” as you pat the sofa. Just to keep things clear (which always smoothes the training process) make sure he never gets on the designated couch or chair without permission at first. Self-control and manners first, then furniture time.

Furniture consequences: Most of your furniture will be hairless, except of course for the chair he’s allowed up on. Consider using metal cookie trays spread out on the off-limits pieces in your absence (store them under the cushions) until he’s in the habit of using only the chair you’ve selected.

I don’t recommend booby-trapping furniture. I know of dogs who have become wary of the entire living room as a result, or fearful of whomever was standing nearby when they were spooked, which are much bigger problems than a little dog hair. Just use a throw blanket and call it a day.

ABCs of Dog Safety at Fox 50 Family Fest October 4, 2009

What a fun crowd! Dozens and dozens of kids and their parents visited the Durham Regional Hospital booth, where Buddy the Dog and I taught them the right way to meet a dog. Each time a child was able to state the ABCs of Dog Safety and role play them with me and Buddy, they earned a sticker, a hand stamp, or a toy for their dog at home. And I got to hear stories from kids about how they had been bitten by dogs, about their favorite dogs, and about their dog friends at home, like China the red nosed pitbull and the blue heeler rescued from the shelter. I even learned how to ask, “May I pet your dog?”  in Chinese. One of the babies pictured in Happy Kids, Happy Dogs visited the booth with his parents and younger brother; how time flies. Older kids and their parents got a kick out of reading Don’t Lick the Dog, and soon I will contact the winner of the raffle of Happy Kids, Happy Dogs.

If you didn’t have a chance to stop by the booth, here are the ABCs of Dog Safety:

Ask permission.

Ask, “May I pet your dog?” before you touch a dog. Always ask, even if you know the dog and even if you think the dog looks friendly.

Be a tree.

Stand still with arms at your side. If the dog does not come closer, do not touch. If the dog comes close to you, then the safest place to pet is the chin or chest.

Chin or chest is where you should pet.

Do not hug or kiss a dog or hold your hand out toward his nose (the dog can already smell you). Those motions can scare a dog and lead to a bite. If the dog comes close to you, stroke under the chin or on the chest. If he doesn’t come close, count his spots or admire his collar, but don’t touch.

It was an all-around great day. Next year I hope to make it over to the face painting booth…

Coming When Called Tip #3: Put Some Pep In Your Dog’s Step September 30, 2009

A big priority for most dog owners is to be able to get their dog to come to them when they’re called. It’s actually not that hard to teach, if you go about it in a way that takes advantage of how dogs learn.

For this behavior (which is really a series of small behaviors, or actions), I have a high standard of performance that I strive for. I want the dog to come immediately, quickly, and on one cue. After all, it’s just not all that useful to train it such that the dog responds eventually, approaches slowly, or does so only after multiple cues or threats. With that in mind, the next few Top Notch Dog Blog entries will offer some tips to improve your dog’s responsiveness to you when you call. It is not so much a “how to” series as pointers to keep you successful as you go.

Some principles to keep in mind: Behaviors that are rewarded tend to increase in frequency, intensity and duration. This means you should make it worth it for your dog to come when called. Reward your dog’s effort, and be generous. Make him really glad he came to you. The flip side of this is to avoid punishing him when he does come to you. That may sound obvious, but many people punish their dog’s behavior without even realizing it, and then continue to struggle down the line, wondering why the dog won’t listen to them.

Coming When Called Tip #3: Put Some Pep In Your Dog’s Step

Ideally, your dog should run toward you with enthusiasm when you call him. If your dog comes when you call, but meanders over to you rather than charging full speed in your direction, then these tips are for you:

• Call, then run away. Dogs love to chase things (they are predators, after all), so let him chase you and he’ll get into the habit of showing a burst of speed when you call. Reward once he catches up. (If kids are helping, make sure they are older and won’t get knocked down. Only let them play this if you have a fairly calm dog–not a puppy or overly excitable dog. And always supervise the game.)
• Sneak away. Play it up, crouching away on tip-toes. Even a distracted dog will key into a sneaky creature trying to make its getaway; he’ll come bounding after you once you call.
• Mix it up. Don’t always reward with food. Use “real life” rewards that your dog loves, like a car ride or a game of tug.
• Surprise him. Dogs are incredibly intelligent and thrive on novelty. Use a new toy, a new type of treat, a new game to reward him and he will try to get to you twice as fast.

Train with enthusiasm and that’s likely the response you’ll get from your pooch.

Coming When Called Tip #2 September 18, 2009

A big priority for most dog owners is to be able to get their dog to come to them when they’re called. It’s actually not that hard to teach, if you go about it in a way that takes advantage of how dogs learn.

For this behavior (which is really a series of small behaviors, or actions), I have a high standard of performance that I strive for. I want the dog to come immediately, quickly, and on one cue. After all, it’s just not all that useful to train it such that the dog responds eventually, approaches slowly, or does so only after multiple cues or threats. With that in mind, the next few Top Notch Dog Blog entries will offer some tips to improve your dog’s responsiveness to you when you call. It is not so much a “how to” series as pointers to keep you successful as you go.

Some principles to keep in mind: Behaviors that are rewarded tend to increase in frequency, intensity and duration. This means you should make it worth it for your dog to come when called. Reward your dog’s effort, and be generous. Make him really glad he came to you. The flip side of this is to avoid punishing him when he does come to you. That may sound obvious, but many people punish their dog’s behavior without even realizing it, and then continue to struggle down the line, wondering why the dog won’t listen to them.

Coming When Called Tip #2: Control Consequences Carefully

Imagine you are a dog, and you are enjoying a good sniff outdoors or playing with one of your friends. Maybe you just found something excellent and really dead to roll in. Then your person calls you. Now you have a choice to make. What might increase the chances you would leave what you’re doing, and go bounding to them? You may be much more likely to drop what you’re doing and fly to your person if you had no doubt there was something good in it for you. In other words, if you had been trained to assume that the consequences would be really good.

So when you are teaching a dog to come when called, be careful that your consequences affirm in your dog’s head that it is best to come to you without hesitation. Good things should happen to your dog when he comes when called. Really good things. Like his supper, dog play date time, a walk, a car ride to a favorite spot, or a raucous game of tug.

Sometimes when we are training a dog to come when called, we think we are providing good things, but we are really providing consequences that are punishing. It’s the dog’s opinion that counts as to what is a “good thing.” So it’s best to avoid calling the dog and then:

• Using unpleasant touch or body language (see Tip # 1)
• Putting the dog in the house (if he was enjoying being outside)
• Putting him in the car (for example, at the dog park)
• Putting him on leash (if he’d been running free)
• Doing something boring or annoying (like checking for a tick or cleaning his ears)
• Sticking him in his crate and then leaving
• Scolding the dog (if he had just been doing something you didn’t like, so you call him and then punish him)

Of course, it is practical to be able to call your dog to be able to do all but the last thing on the list above, and eventually, after a long history of rewards, doing so should not ruin your dog’s responsiveness. (Especially if you occasionally surprise him by calling him, putting him in his crate, and letting him right back out again! Dogs love games like that.) While you’re in the training phase, when you need to do something other than provide wonderful consequences, just go get him. Or teach a different cue from his recall word, like “inside” or “kennel up.” If he’s doing something naughty, instead of calling him, think in terms of what you could have done to prevent the naughty behavior to begin with.

Speaking of consequences, you might be inclined to punish a dog who does not come when called. That may work if you’re exceptionally skilled and know exactly what you’re doing. You still might get some unintended fallout with that approach. Personally and professionally, I prefer to put my energy and training into getting the dog to come with confidence and enthusiasm, rather than getting him to come because he is afraid of what I might do to him if he doesn’t. If I called a dog in the learning stage and the dog didn’t respond, I would be sure to note in what way I had made it too hard for the dog to be successful (was he too far away or too distracted compared to where we were in our training?). With a well-trained dog, who had carefully been taught to come under great distraction, I would promptly and quietly collect the dog by the collar, ending whatever fun he was having, and then work on a training plan to brush up that gap in his education.

When your dog chooses not to come when called it sure can feel like he is giving you the bird (that one was for all the retrievers out there). But if you examine the consequences you’ve been providing, you may well find the key to turning things around.

Coming When Called: Tip #1 September 10, 2009

A big priority for most dog owners is to be able to get their dog to come to them when they’re called. It’s actually not that hard to teach, if you go about it in a way that takes advantage of how dogs learn.

For this behavior (which is really a long series of  behaviors, or actions), I have a high standard of performance that I strive for. I want the dog to come immediately, quickly, and on one cue. After all, it’s just not all that useful to train it such that the dog responds eventually, approaches slowly, or does so only after multiple cues or threats. With that in mind, the next few Top Notch Dog Blog entries will offer some tips to improve your dog’s responsiveness to you when you call.

Some principles to keep in mind: Behaviors that are rewarded tend to increase in frequency, intensity and duration. This means you should make it worth it for your dog to come when called. Reward your dog’s effort, and be generous. Make him really glad he came to you. The flip side of this is to avoid punishing him when he does come to you. That may sound obvious, but many people punish their dogs’ behavior without even realizing it, and then continue to struggle down the line, wondering why the dog won’t listen to them.

Coming When Called Tip #1: Body Language

Use your body language to your advantage. If you face your dog with direct eye contact, you may be encouraging him to stop before he reaches you or to come in more slowly than he might otherwise. You’ll make it even worse if you have a stern expression on your face. Try standing at even just a very slight angle, making more indirect eye contact (like looking between his eyes), and smiling.

When your dog reaches you, avoid looming over to pet him, grab him, or take his collar. That communicates you are taking up the space in front of you, and you want your dog to get out of that space. Of course, you don’t want him out of that space; you want him to come all the way to you. So remain standing, or squat down instead.

Finally, most dogs do not enjoy being patted on top of the head. As primates, it is our tendency to reach, bend over, and touch palms-down, but those are all counterproductive if you are hoping to reward your dog for coming. When you think about it, petting your dog on top of his head may actually punish his attempt to come all the way to you when called (that is, it may decrease the likelihood of the behavior happening again). You’ll know that’s the case if he comes in just short of reaching you, if he turns away, or moves away instead of coming closer for more. Try petting underhanded, under his collar or on the sides of his face. Avoid grabbing him, hugging him, or taking his face in your hands. Touch and praise him in a way he finds rewarding, and you may well find he comes closer to you.

What to do if you are charged by a dog August 24, 2009

If you enjoy walking or jogging for your daily exercise, you may have encountered stray or at-large neighborhood dogs who surprise you as you pass. Many of these are benign pooches, who are curious to see what you are up to and just watch you as you go by. However, on a rare occasion, you may find yourself being charged by a dog. Would you know what to do to keep yourself safe, and how to get the dog to leave you alone?

Contrary to some outdated advice that is still circulating, your best bet is to be still, quiet, and neutral. If you attempt to scold the dog, unless you are an expert at reading dog body language and assess the dog as being conflicted or fearful, you may escalate the intensity of the dog’s behavior toward you. If you attempt to continue moving, by running past, or running or backing away, you may well add to the dog’s excitement and inadvertently encourage him to come after you (you will not be able to outrun him). If you attempt to extend your hand for the dog to sniff, this will likely be interpreted as an offensive move, thereby risking a bite. Extending a hand when meeting a dog is very old-timey advice that persists, despite what we’ve learned about dog behavior. It was once thought that dogs would be calmer if offered the chance to sniff our scent. However, it turns out their sense of smell is incredibly powerful (you may have heard about dogs trained to sniff out narcotics or cancerous cells). A dog close enough to see you has likely already smelled you. To avoid antagonizing a dog or escalating the intensity of a potential attack, avoid using threatening body language like this. Do not reach for or attempt to touch the dog.

The best thing to do is to stop moving, stand sideways to the dog, and say nothing. Look at the ground ahead of you so you can keep the dog in your peripheral vision. It is best to fold your arms to keep your hands safe, and to stand with your feet apart so that you won’t be knocked over. When you appear big, neutral, and still like this, most dogs will either stop before reaching you (in which case backing away would likely be your next best move), or they will approach you to investigate and move on. Even a pretty charged up dog may bite you only once and then leave you alone once he registers how neutral you are. When the dog loses interest, you can back away, continuing to keep the dog in your peripheral vision should you need to stop again. Talking to the dog may only convey your anxiety, so it’s best to just be silent and take a deep breath. This will keep your head clear so you can get a good description of the dog, and if possible make a mental note from whose property he emerged. Then use that information to make a report to Animal Control. Although the dog may not have bitten you this time, Animal Control will pay a visit to the dog’s owners to educate them about the importance of confining their dog to their property. (The dog pictured here is a friendly pup jumping up on me. The last time a dog charged me in a threatening manner I didn’t have my camera handy, but I am glad to report the techniques I just described worked and I was not injured.)

Usually these measures are enough to avoid a serious attack. Should the dog bite you repeatedly, however, do your best to remain standing. Use an object like a purse or branch to keep between you and the dog. If other people may be within earshot and the dog is not relenting, shout, “No! 911!” Should you be knocked down, curl up like you are pretending to be a rock, face down, with your arms covering your ears and neck. This posture protects you best and is about as unthreatening as you can appear to the dog, and which will hopefully result in him leaving you alone.

There is a product called Spray Shield which some joggers and walkers carry. It is a concentrated citronella spray that won’t injure a dog or person, but that may deter a dog with aggressive intent. The sprayer is small enough to fit in your hand and easy to keep in your pocket. Because it is not painful on contact like pepper spray, it may be less likely to increase the intensity of the attack, which is one of the risks of using pepper spray.

If you know of loose dogs or dogs who pose a threat to passersby, please call Animal Control so that they can help keep the dog and his neighbors safe. You can make the call anonymously in most cases. It is best to prevent problems instead of waiting until there is a serious injury, either to a person or to the dog. In the meantime, find a different route on which to walk or jog.

Riding in Cars with Dogs August 17, 2009

In very young dogs, or in dogs unaccustomed to riding in a vehicle, carsickness is not uncommon. The dog may tremble, salivate, and/or vomit. Most dogs outgrow it. Unfortunately, before they have a chance to outgrow it, some dogs begin to associate the car with the feeling of being motion sick, and get nervous just getting into the car. This nervous anticipation leads to queasiness, which in turn perpetuates the problem of getting sick in the car.

The following strategies should put your dog on the road to enjoying car trips. It is best to do them all; you’ll likely find your dog will be over his problem in a week or two:

• Set up a crate for your dog to ride in. Cover it with a sheet so that he can’t see the world zipping and bouncing past him. Make sure there is airflow along the bottom third of the crate so fresh air reaches him.
• Secure the crate so it is stable. It should not tip or slide (use bungee cords, and/or a towel folded underneath the crate to make it level).
• 15 minutes before each car trip: a) feed your pooch a couple of ginger snaps, which can help calm the tummy, and b) spray the crate bedding (limit bedding to an old towel at this point) with Comfort Zone D.A.P. (dog appeasing pheromone).
• Start with *very* short trips (no more than 1/2 a block). Drive the short distance, then allow your dog to exit the car and do something he loves, like take a walk or play a game of tug. Then drive the short distance back home. This will help car rides become the tip-off to him that good things follow.
• Extend the distance as long as you are successful (meaning he does not get sick and seems relaxed and drool-free).

And, of course, do not punish your dog for getting sick in the car. Not only does that make no sense (would it help you get over motion sickness if someone scolded you?), but it could also make it worse, since your dog would have something else to fear associated with the car.

It is better to go on a series of “fake” short trips that predict a happy event, rather than going on only necessary trips that result in car sickness. Sometimes it takes just a couple of weeks of this approach to get a dog happy and relaxed riding down the road. If a crate is not a good long-term solution for car rides, please consider using a doggie seat-belt for everyone’s safety and to instill good car-riding habits.

Pupsicles August 10, 2009

You may have heard the adage “A tired dog is a good dog.” But when it’s too hot outside to provide normal walks or runs, keeping dogs’ minds and bodies exercised can be a challenge. You’ll find some ideas for physical and mental games to help achieve a tired dog on the Top Notch Dog Facebook page.

A classic way to occupy your pooch in the heat is the Pupsicle. (If memory serves I first heard of a similar thing at the 1999 Association of Pet Dog Trainers conference. I am lucky to be in a profession in which conference proceedings involve learning how to stuff Kongs.)

Here’s the quick and easy version. You will need:

a Kong toy (widely available)

broth (it’s easy to find low-sodium, pre-made broth nowadays)

a bit of cheese

a coffee mug

Block the tiny hole of the Kong with a glob of cheese (this prevents leakage during the freezing process). Place the Kong, large opening up, in a coffee mug (this keeps it upright and catches any spillage). Pour broth to fill the Kong. Place in freezer until solid.

Optional: To make it more interesting and challenging, fill half full with broth, freeze. Add a layer of cheese or other tidbits. Top with more broth and freeze.

Present to your dog when you want to keep him busy. The thick rubber of the Kong keeps the broth from melting quickly, so it’s not as messy as you’d think. Most dogs lick at the Kong for quite a while, giving you some quiet time to think about things like snow…

Love It or Leave It August 2, 2009

“Leave it” is a handy cue to communicate to your dog “it is none of your beeswax, leave it alone, period.” While it is pretty common for people to command, “leave it” at their dog in a threatening tone to get the dog to back off of something he wants, I would venture that those dogs are reacting to the tone of voice and don’t understand the words (try growling “rutabaga” in the same tone next time, and see what happens…).

Does it matter whether the dog understands the concept of leaving something alone on cue, as opposed to being scared into backing off? Maybe, maybe not. You’ll have to assess that for yourself, but here is some food for thought. There are times it is particularly important to get your dog to “leave it” without sounding threatening. For example, if your dog is approaching your baby, or thinking of going up to another dog, you probably wouldn’t want your dog to feel threatened or worried in either of those situations. You’d probably want him feeling relaxed, responsive, and capable of moving away on one, neutral, unemotional cue from you. Or on a “leave it” cue given by anyone in your family, even a child. Furthermore, you may prefer to tell your dog to “leave it” without having to keep after him. Ideally “leave it,” means to leave it alone, period, so that you can turn your back or leave the room, and your dog is not busy sorting out, “Is it safe or dangerous to go for it?” They are just happy to “leave it” without you repeating yourself or trying to catch them at something. That’s a much more reliable, practical state of affairs in my experience. And it means your dog can hang around you when you have guests over, appetizers at nose-level, because just the presence of something tempting can become part of the cue. It is very handy when “leave it” becomes the dog’s default behavior.

There are four steps to teaching “leave it.” This video shows the first two steps (the other two are putting the desirable item in more challenging places like the floor or a coffee table, and, finally, putting the behavior on verbal cue before working up to real-life scenarios). Things to know before you start:

• In Step I you will present your dog with the temptation of treats held in your fist. The dog will try nudging, licking, pawing, and nibbling to get at the goodies. The object is to pay close attention so you will notice the instant your dog’s nose moves away from the temptation. And his nose will move away, if only an inch, if only for an instant. It is that voluntary withdrawal from the temptation that you will reward by saying ‘yes’ and feeding a treat from the opposite hand. What could be better than your dog volunteering to ignore items of great interest?
• It goes very quickly. Even if you drop a treat or say ‘yes’ at the wrong time (I do each of those once in the video), it doesn’t matter, just keep going. Your dog will pick this up very fast, so be ready!
• Use ho-hum treats in your “leave it” hand and super duper, really good treats in your reward hand. (In the video, my right “leave it” hand holds dog biscuits and my left hand holds tiny bits of meat as rewards.)
• For Step II, you will hold a treat in your open palm, which your dog will go for (be ready!). When he does, say nothing. Do not withdraw your hand, but rather snap it shut like a clam.
• Do not utter the words “leave it” for these first two steps. (You will not hear me say “leave it” in the video.) You would not want to pair the dog going for the food with the words “leave it,” right? Only when the dog understands that avoiding the desired item brings him rewards should you add the cue.
• As a bonus, if you can keep the dog from sitting or lying down, that is optimal. In real life, the dog is usually up on all fours, moving about when we need a “leave it” cue. Possible scenarios might be on a walk and there’s something disgusting on the sidewalk, in the kitchen and you’ve just dropped a hunk of chocolate, or in the family room and your toddler is ambling by with a snack in hand. So if the dog sits during your “leave it” training, reward close to your body so he has to get up to get the reward. Or just back up and pat your leg before the next repetition. (In the video, the dog is sitting and even lying down at one point, partly because with such a tight camera angle I would have been out of sight had I backed up.)

That should be what you need to get started. Happy training!