Freebie Number One

Enjoy free webinars and Facebook chats on a terrific variety of training topics presented by the Associaiton of Pet Dog Trainers. Want to help your dog to stop pulling on leash? Not sure if you should get a dog from a shelter? Want your dog and baby to get along? Struggling with separation anxiety? Think you might like to become a dog trainer? Check out the schedule and grab all the state-of-the-art training advice you like!

Freebie Number Two

“But,” you say, “I want customized advice for my dog!” No problemo. Email me [barbara[at]topnotchdog.com] a one-minute long video of where you are stuck in your training, and I will write back with advice on how to get unstuck and meet your goal.

Your video must be one minute (or less) in length. (Limit three per person.)

Your training dilemma must be for everyday, basic manners issues, like trouble teaching your dog a position (like sit or down or sit pretty) or getting him to do something (come when called, settle on a mat, bring the ball back without getting so distracted). What would you like a little help with?

I will provide you some tried and true instructions that should get you unstuck, perhaps something new I invent that I feel sure would work, and maybe even some tips to advance things as you progress. Depends how zesty I’m feeling.

I can’t wait to see your video!

Here’s some video of tricks I did with one of my dogs just to get you inspired to get your training challenge on tape:

If you have a new dog, especially a puppy or teenage dog, I bet everyone is telling you to get a Kong. Dog trainers are wild about Kongs, your veterinarian may even sell them in the waiting room, and every pet store stocks them in all sizes.

But let’s be honest, you have looked at a Kong and wondered what the big deal is. Maybe you even purchased one and brought it home. You put it in front of your pooch expecting a small miracle to occur. But your dog just sniffed it and walked away. You can’t help thinking, “Now what? Why all the hype?”

The truth is, the Kong is just a hunk of hollow rubber, unless you start thinking like a dog. Dogs like games and puzzles that engage their amazing brains. They need to use their powerful sniffers, their paws, and their jaws to scavenge and extract food from tricky places. The Kong is designed to make all of this physical and mental challenge happen in a way that does not involve your furniture, rugs, shoes, undies or other potential objects of fascination.

If your dog could talk, he or she would ask you to please stuff the Kong parfait-style: some smelly, gooey stuff in the tip (like cheese or peanut butter), layered with some kibble, then something globby like part of a banana, layered with a few dog biscuits or leftovers from last night’s supper (veggies are great, no cooked bones or toxic stuff, please), topped off with something easy to get started, like more peanut butter.

Now you’re on to something!

That should keep your dog quiet in the crate, or occupied while you prepare dinner or watch Dancing With the Stars (in which case you obviously cannot lower your eyes from the TV, even for a moment). You also get Good Dog Owner points for providing an outlet for your dog’s daily behavioral needs.

Fancy versions of this (because I know your dog is above-average smart):

• Jam everything in as tight as possible by using the back of a knife
• Prepare the Kong, then freeze it
• Prepare the Kong, then nuke it for 15 seconds or so
• Feed all regular meals as stuffed Kongs (use just a dab of PB mixed in to hold everything together)
• Make multiple Kongs ahead of time (refrigerate) and hide them around the room/house before you leave

Yes, it’s gross, but your dog really will get every last morsel out (if not, adjust the difficulty by stuffing looser and using less goo). I put mine in the top rack of my dishwasher and, voila, they are sterilized and ready for another round. And I’ve had the same bloomin’ Kongs for 15 years.

If your dog has mack daddy chewing power, get the black Kong. If your dog is a girl, or boy, and color-coding is important to you, get the pink or blue Kong. But please, get a Kong. Your dog will love you for it. While your dog is munching away, please share your recipes, success stories and questions and comments below. There is likely another dog owner out there who would learn from your experience.

The key to solving the training aspect of this dilemma is to understand that dogs are always learning from the situations we put them in.

If dogs are allowed to gallivant off leash to a stranger (even if the dog is friendly, still in the process of being trained, or any other reason), then the dog will likely find that to be fun and interesting and therefore be inclined to repeat it. With many dogs, it takes only one or two rehearsals of the behavior for it to seem worth repeating.

If, however, they are prevented from running around in the presence of strangers by being called and leashed (which courtesy and common decency towards others requires of us), and immediately provided with something fun and interesting (like praise, treats, a tug toy, a chance to sniff something fascinating) then that is the habit the dog will enjoy. It is up to us to make the choice and do our best to instill good habits. Part of good training is refraining from putting our dogs in situations that set them up for failure (some old-time methods used to do this deliberately, but we now know better). Rather, we should set them up for success so they get to rehearse correct behavior over and over.

It does take time to train a dog to respond reliably when we call, and I admire dog owners who make the effort. The good news is that there is no reason the training must occur at the expense of strangers’ comfort (or that of their dog!). Any solid recall training program will introduce gradually the distraction of other people, dogs, and wildlife, with the proper prevention measures in place to avoid subjecting anyone to the behavior of an untrained dog.

For example, we can start off in a training class designed to teach these skills using tried and true methods, rather than simply doing our best and hoping things go well. As the dog reaches more advanced levels, we can set up situations in which the approaching “stranger” is actually a friend we’ve enlisted to help assess and strengthen the dog’s skills. Until you can reliably call your dog away from the most tempting distractions under controlled situations, it is not fair to others to attempt it in real-life circumstances where you could cause problems for people and dogs, however well-intentioned you may be.

So where does one find a solid training program, one that uses modern, reward-based methods to get a jaw-dropping reliable recall? The book Out and About with Your Dog: Dog to Dog Interactions On the Street, On the Trails and at the Dog Park by Sue Sternberg offers one such training program. Another solid approach is Leslie Nelson’s Really Reliable Recall DVD or Susan Garrett’s Five Minute Formula for a Brilliant Recall webinar. Nowadays most anyone has access to a professional trainer who can create a customized plan (try Association of Pet Dog Trainers and do a Trainer Search). You might also find it helpful to train towards Canine Life and Social Skills (C.L.A.S.S.) degrees, in which the dog must come instantly even when tempted by a stranger offering treats or with food and toys spread on the ground.

By the way, even if your dog is on leash, and especially if your dog is on a retractable leash, it is important to keep your dog by your side when passing others and not allow your dog to approach them (joggers, cyclists, people on horseback or with a stroller, people walking their dogs). Please put yourself in others’ shoes; while your dog may be lovely, young or just learning, their dog may be shy or unable to tolerate invasions of personal space. If you are interested in a doggie introduction, you must first ask, “Can they meet?” and wait for an answer before even considering letting your dog approach. This protects your dog, their dog, and shows respect for your fellow humans.

None of us is perfect, and we all make mistakes from time to time. Hopefully we all try to do our part on public trails by recognizing we each play a role in the continued availability of these spaces to people and dogs. Just as we avoid littering and leaving behind dog waste, let us to be courteous and not allow our dogs to intrude on the outdoor experience of others. Happy training!

What kinds of experiences do you need to provide your puppy?

Introduce to your pup the sounds, sights, smells, touch, people, other animals, situations and surfaces he or she is likely to encounter in life. Consider your lifestyle and make a list of common activities your dog will encounter. Many lists will include “vacuum cleaner,” “a visitor to our home,” “grooming appointments” or “running children.” One list may include “riding elevators,” while someone else’s list may include “horses and chickens.”  Perhaps a trip to a shopping center, playground, puppy play group, public library, or cafe would fit the bill (here are more ideas.) There is no way to introduce everything the puppy will need to feel at ease about, but the idea is to at least come up with the most common things and provide happy exposure to those.

Why is a “happy exposure” so important?

Many people say they “mess with” the puppy while she is eating or “mess with” or touch her paws and tail to accustom her to that. This may work out, or what they may be doing is teaching the puppy to find that kind of touch rather annoying (and then, paradoxically, they punish the puppy for reacting in annoyance). If your goal is not mere tolerance of human touch, but rather you’d like to have a dog who actually wags her tail when you take a food item away or trim her nails, why not build in the right kind of association from the start? Teach the pup to happily accept human hands coming at her by pairing it with some of her meal. It can mean the difference between a big battle over these issues and helping the dog feel at ease (if you were the pup, which would you prefer?).

We used to think we had to “alpha roll” puppies to teach them who was “dominant.” But like every field of knowledge, dog training and behavior has evolved. There are some approaches we continue with and some areas where we find a better, more up-to-date solution. Now we know that there is just no good reason to intimidate a dog in order to help him fit into your family or your life, or to show leadership. You certainly can do it, and many people do, but why go that route when there are alternatives? I think it is much more respectful of the dog, allows kids to be part of the training, and allows you to avoid unintended fallout of using physical intimidation in the name of teaching. It is easy to get started; just get one of the books listed to the right or use this list, and find a puppy class that uses modern, reward-based methods. You can still show leadership, create boundaries and meet expectations for good behavior. What have you got to lose by training in a way that works for both of you?

How to help your puppy if the exposure turns less than happy

Stress is part of life, so it’s okay for your pup to learn what happens when things get dicey.  If your puppy balks or resists at any point, take it as information that you need to back up a step and pair an easier step with some of his meal, praise and/or a favorite toy. It is best to create trust with your dog rather than fear. Be patient and upbeat and go at your puppy’s pace. (Think of it this way: if the sight of a spider panicked you, I would not tell you to get over it and then put one down the back of your shirt. Not very effective, nor very kind.) Of course if your pup has a very strong reaction, contact your class instructor so you can pick the best plan of action for your particular puppy.

Don’t allow anyone to overwhelm your puppy (or pick him up without explicit instructions), especially if they are unfamiliar. For many reasons, well-meaning people you know and random strangers alike will mimic what they see on TV, what their neighbor told them, or what they remember about having a dog from 30 years ago. You will get all manner of unsolicited advice. The main thing to do is always allow your puppy to approach the person at his or her own pace, tell the person to pet under the chin or on the chest (they can feed treats, too, as can you), and if necessary be prepared to cheerfully say “let’s go” and encourage your pup to move away from the person. Most encounters go fine, but it always helps to have a plan in case you run into that extra enthusiastic person. (If you see a cute puppy or any dog, please ask the owner for permission before touching or interacting with their pooch.)

How often should you provide a happy exposure for your puppy?

I recommend your puppy have a field trip, new visitor, or new item from your list at least five times per week. That factors in a couple of days when you may be extra busy and gives the puppy a chance to have some calmer days. An outing doesn’t have to be any longer than 5-10 minutes, and it’s a lot less work than trying fix problems that otherwise might crop up later. An added bonus is that your puppy will likely behave like a dream the rest of the day, as the excitement of something new tends to wear them out a bit.

Puppy class certainly counts as a happy exposure, just be aware that, by itself, attending puppy class does not mean you have socialized your puppy. Class is a great way for you to learn about appropriate greetings and play between puppies, house training and bite inhibition, and basic training, and I highly recommend it. Going to the same class each week, with the same people and dogs, however, clearly only begins to help with your list. So do attend class and then practice what you learned the rest of the week in novel surroundings.

Remember, each person will have their own list depending on what they think life will have in store for their growing dog. Plan a happy new event at least five days a week. Make it fun by being encouraging, going at your puppy’s pace, and pairing encounters with meals or a favorite toy. Enjoy your curious little fuzzball, because adolescence is not far behind!

You may be wondering about advice you’ve heard regarding vaccinations. Most veterinarians now recommend early and frequent socialization opportunities, even if the puppy has not finished all vaccinations. Veterinarians who are board certified in behavior, in fact, say the risk of your puppy dying from exposure to a virus is far less likely than death from euthanasia due to behavior problems later on that might have been prevented through planned exposures to novel people, places, other animals, and things.

Here is the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior position statement on puppy socialization and vaccines. In a nutshell, they say that puppies can attend puppy classes starting at 7-8 weeks of age. They say pups should receive a first deworming and a set of vaccines a week before they attend class. They should meet as many new people, dogs, and environments as possible.

If you are uneasy about making the change to the new recommendations, I advise taking the pup with you and just not setting him on the ground. You can keep him or her on your lap, in your arms, or on a huge blanket so the pup can take in the sights, sounds and people you encounter.

Your job is to make sure the puppy is not merely exposed to new things, but rather that that her little puppy tail is wagging out of happiness most of the time you are out. To achieve this, don’t stand by and watch your puppy. Be involved. Pair her interactions with others with a cheerful, confident, upbeat attitude, along with plenty of treats and a favorite toy.

I don’t recommend letting strangers pick your puppy up, or even pet her until they agree to do so in a way that will most benefit the pup: only if the pup comes to them, and then only under the chin or on the chest. Not everyone will do it right, so if someone comes on too strong and your pup should need encouragement, be quick to say, “What a brave puppy!” in a happy tone and if necessary be on your way.

Here are some more reasons to take your pup out into the world with you as soon as you bring her home at 7 or 8 weeks of age. Doing so will provide a chance to:

• create happy associations with the types of experiences your pup will need to take in stride as an adult.
• tire your puppy out. Mental stimulation is just as important as physical exercise. You’ll be amazed how much calmer your pup is after a field trip or visiting with new people.
• get your puppy to the veterinarian’s office, just for fun.
• teach your puppy how normal, and even fun, car rides can be.
• have a mildly stressful experience or two and bounce back from it, just like will occur throughout your dog’s life.

Next up: ideas for where to take your puppy, how often you should go, and whether puppy class will meet your little fuzzball’s socialization needs. Stay tuned!

The entrants were asked to describe how the photo depicts an action taught with reward-based methods and how it benefits both dog an person.

This photo depicts Capella in the position she arrives at when Kay calls her. Notice how close and straight she is positioned. To teach her to come so close and straight, Kay dropped treats straight down for Capella to catch (if she came in crooked or too far out, no treat). Kay also mixes this in with playing fetch with Capella’s favorite ball, to make a game of it and keep it fun for both of them.

The sitting so close and straight after being called benefits Kay because, as you can see in the photo, she gets great focus and attention from Capella using this method. Kay also competes in precision sports with Capella where this high level of performance is required. Even a half inch off from center would be penalized. It doesn’t look like Kay will have to worry about that! (And if memory serves, Capella is just shy of being 18 months old.)

It benefits Capella because it’s good exercise for her brain and body, she gets to play with and bond with her person, and she can be kept safer since Kay can easily reach her collar should she need to put her back on leash during off-leash play.

Again, hearty congratulations! I am looking forward to working with Kay and Capella in their free hour of dog training.

For information on scheduling appointments, please visit www.topnotchdog.com

Step One: Cue your dog to do something she already knows how to do.

Step Two: Snap a photo of it.

Step Three: Email it to me (barbara@topnotchdog.com) or post it to the Top Notch Dog Facebook page along with a sentence about how you used reward based methods to train what the photo depicts, and how it benefits both you and the dog. You’re done!

First place: $100 in dog training at Top Notch Dog

Second place: $50 in dog training at Top Notch Dog

Third place: a one-year subscription to The Bark magazine.

You have until January 20th. Any age, breed type, or training level welcome. Entries are already rolling in. If you’ve never taught your dog to do anything on cue, there’s no time like the present; see great training tips from the Association of Pet Dog Trainers in celebration of National Train Your Dog Month.

Here’s an idea by way of example: Submit a photo of your dog sitting, saying that you used treats to lure the dog into position, praising and feeding when the dog sat. The sit benefits you because the dog sits rather than jumping up, and benefits the dog because his calmer position means more quality time with his people.

Fine print: Winner will be notifed by January 30th and may put the prize towards basic manners or tricks training, no serious behavior problems, which will be at the discretion of Top Notch Dog. Prize must be used by June 15th, 2011. You can be a dog professional, but not a professional photographer. Limit three entries per family.

But that’s not all! Here are other ways to celebrate National Train Your Dog Month with Top Notch Dog!

15% off all dog and puppy training in the month of January.

Free access to the discussion of all things kids, babies and dogs hosted by Barbara at the virtual bookclub Dog Read starting January 16th. We’ll be discussing Happy Kids, Happy Dogs, which is recommended by childbirth educators and trauma prevention specialists at Duke Health and UNC Hospitals. Now available online, at The Regulator Bookshop and as an iBook.

Happy National Train Your Dog Month!

The other day I noticed one of my dogs has not learned the concept of a Zen “leave it” the way I meant him to. The Zen leave it means, if you notice something tempting, automatically (without prompting from me) leave it alone unless you’re given permission to investigate, grab or eat it. This goes for food belonging to people eating at the table, sitting on the couch, or putting a plate of food put down on the coffee table. It goes for food accidentally dropped on the floor, and for snacks clenched in the tiny fists of toddlers ambling around. In other words: dog, that food is none of your beeswax. Even if I leave the room. The cue to leave it alone is not a threat or even a pleasant verbal cue like “leave it.” Rather, the very presence of the food is the signal to avoid grabbing it. (That’s the Zen part.)

Fancy as it sounds, most dogs pick up on this very quickly, and they don’t need reminding, reprimanding or bribing to maintain the behavior. (Generally speaking, behaviors trained using reward-based methods become rewarding in themselves to perform, so gradually you don’t need any external rewards once the dog has the hang of it.) With my other dogs, I have left the room with a snack out in plain view, intending to use the restroom but getting sidetracked with email, and then returned to find my snack intact.

It all starts with teaching the concept of “leaving the food alone is the surest way to score something you like; trying to eat the food makes it disappear.” Once those concepts are established, it is not hard to move to more advanced versions of it. You can teach your dog if the tiny kid has a snack that temps you, that is your cue to leave it alone (to get started, see the how-to teach leave it video.)

Back to the dog in question. I have trained him not to take food from someone’s hand, their plate, or the coffee table. But I’ve noticed that he will hover within literally a half-inch of said tasty morsels. Technically he is correct. “See, I didn’t touch it, momma!” he must be thinking. And yet, his adorable whiskered lips, his gigantic head, and the enthusiasm for the game oozing out of his very being are not what I want in a dining experience. In fairness, the reason he has learned to hover over the food is that I have not put in the effort to help him choose as his default behavior ”leave other people’s food alone with room to spare.”

So I decided that, when I enter the room with food on a plate, sit on the couch with food, or place food on the coffee table I want those actions to be his cue not just to leave the food alone, but to go to lie down. Believe it or not, you probably already know how to teach a dog to do that.

If you have ever taken a dog training class, you know that luring a dog into a sit position ends up giving you a hand signal to indicate you want the dog to sit. The hand motion associated with luring with the food becomes the salient cue for the dog. Meaning that, even without food, when you sweep your hand upward the dog reads that as a signal to sit. But you may want to switch to a new cue, like the word “sit” (with no arm motion). The tried and true method is to use the new cue (“sit”), pause a beat (important), then use the old cue (arm motion). A few pairings later, the dog figures out that the new cue predicts the familiar cue, and the behavior you want him to do.

I applied that same principle to to this issue around food. My dog already has a cue to go lie down, which is “place.” So I cut up some treats, put them on a little plate, walked into the room & sat down (new cue), paused a beat, then said “place.” When he lied down at his place I rewarded him by tossing a treat to him. I released with “ok” and did that a few more times. Then I walked into the room & sat down (new cue) and paused. And paused some more. And the wheels in that magnificent head sprang into motion, and he went to his place and lied down. I tossed a treat to him for that. Then I generalized it to me sitting on different pieces of furniture. I’d come in with food, sit down, and he would go lie down at his place. I started doing it at human mealtimes with a real plate of food (dog treats in my pockets to use as rewards).

I think he is getting the hang of it better than I’d realized, because we had dinner guests the other night who did something more challenging than I’d yet practiced. Someone walked into the room with the appetizer, put it on the coffee table, and guess who trotted right on past it, right to his place, and lied down? (My jaw was on the floor, but I tried to play it cool.)

The moral of the story is you don’t have to live with behavior you consider obnoxious, pushy, loud, aggravating or rude. And you don’t have to nag, punish, bribe or distract your dog from doing it every time the same situation comes up. Why not teach the dog that the very thing that used to prompt the reaction you don’t like is actually a cue to do something you do like? Pretty soon a simple “good boy” will be all you need to help him keep it up (just like you probably no longer give your dog a treat for sitting every time).

If you are like most of us, your dog engages in a behavior or two that bothers you. What would you rather your dog do instead? If your hand on the door predicts attempted bolting, then maybe teach him that hand motion is a cue for backing up. If a stranger approaching predicts jumping, try teaching that is actually  cue to sit. You may need to be creative, breaking the training into tiny steps, and many times you have to be very patient if the temptation is very great, or the dog has been practicing the annoying behavior for a long time. But it works, and it’s amazing to see the dog’s wonderful brain engage as he learns the association with the new cue.

Your dog is doing the best he can with what you’ve taught him. Start the new year with a plan to replace dog behavior you don’t like with dog behavior you like a lot. Happy new year, and happy training!

Reward delivery is the focus of this blog entry. Before you begin a training session, plan how you are going to deliver rewards. Think about what position you want the dog’s body to tend toward, and maximize reward delivery to that end. This will greatly increase your dog’s understanding and speed progress. Here are a few examples:

Coming when called

A dog who comes when called, but who doesn’t come close enough for you to touch, may be impossible to catch when it really counts. To teach your dog to come in all the way, always deliver the treats or toy very close to your body. It may help to anchor your hands on your knees or thighs so you won’t be tempted to reach out toward the dog, thereby inadvertently rewarding him at arm’s length.

While you are at it, occasionally grasp your dog’s collar while you are rewarding him with the other hand; that way he’ll feel quite happy to be grabbed by the collar.

With a little dog, you can add some excitement by occasionally tossing the reward between your legs and out behind you. This way he gets accustomed to flying right up to you, never knowing when you might let him chase down the treat. Little dogs are sometime uncomfortable getting right up close to us, so this delivery will reward them for zooming right in. Just be sure you play this game only some of the time, rewarding close to your body most of the time. (See more Coming When Called tips.)

Leash manners

Notice when your dog is walking right by your side, because that body position in relation to yours is what you should reward. Deliver the treat by reaching it down along the side of your leg, parallel to the seam of your pants, then place the treat on the ground near the heel of your shoe. This treat delivery method results in the dog sticking by your side and prevents him cutting in front of you, zig zagging back and forth, lagging behind or forging out ahead. When you reinforce the behavior of walking by your side, it will increase in frequency, duration and intensity.

This reward delivery also sets the dog up for a successful repeat performance; while he is nibbling the treat off the ground, you can move off, so that he has to catch up to you. When he reaches your side, presto, he is in position for another reward. This enables you to rehearse success over and over.

Placing the treat on the ground also decreases the likelihood of your dog jumping up at you while you walk, since when your dog is eating the treat he’s being rewarded for having all four feet on the ground.

As soon as your dog reliably positions himself along side you as you walk, increase and randomize the number of steps you take before rewarding.  Blend in real-life rewards for walking beside you, like a chance to sniff a tree or play with another dog, and within weeks you will no longer need to use treats as rewards.

Holding still

How can you get your dog to stay put once you’ve gotten her to sit or lie down? Sometimes people attempt to reward a dog for staying by releasing the dog to them and then feeding the treat. But that’s likely not rewarding the stay position; it’s rewarding the movement toward you, and may well erode your stay training. The same applies to sit as well as to down, or any other stationary position. Deliver the treat in a way that encourages the dog to maintain position and rewards that position.

To reward a down, deliver the treat between the front paws, close to the dog’s chest and slightly tucking her chin. That will help her weight shift back into a nice solid down, elbows on the floor.

To reward sit, deliver the treat slightly above nose level to keep the dog’s weight back in her haunches.

Think about other stationary positions or movement you’d like to reward, and how treat delivery can aid you in your training.

Another thing that you can save for your dogs are people food containers (first, rinse well) to use as toys. Dogs thrive on novelty and love to explore new smells and textures, so it can be a big treat for them to get something unusual to play with like:

• Round lids (like from a buttery spread container) make good targets for training your dog to run away from the door when visitors enter. How-to: Teach him to nose touch the clean lid by holding it in your hand, then affix it somewhere away from the door at nose level. Stand near him and practice until he gets the hang of it (you may need to hold it in your hand first, then attach it to the wall or chair leg). When he is nose touching the lid with gusto on cue, increase your starting distance from it until he will charge over and bop it even if you are both standing near the door. Then add in the doorbell sound before you give your verbal cue, and your dog will hear the  bell, then run to the target instead of leaping on your guests.
• It’s also great exercise to run back and forth to a target, so consider nailing a lid to a tree at nose-level, teach him to target that and call him back to you. When you call him back and reward, you are working on his come-when called cue as well.
• Orange juice cartons, rinsed, dried and with a few small holes cut in the sides, make great low-cost food dispensers. Throw away the plastic cap and fill the container with your dog’s kibble. Your dog can enjoy his meal by tossing, nudging, and biting at the container. He may even rip it to shreds, which is what dogs were built to do, so let him have at it as long as he doesn’t ingest any of the pieces of the carton.
• Plastic water bottles make great interactive toys. Fill one about a third full with water and put the cap back on, then put the whole bottle into a sock. Tie a tight knot in the sock and you’ve got a novel toy to keep a (up to 12-16 week old) puppy occupied. (Older dogs may puncture the bottle through the sock and then you’ll have a leaking toy, but you could use an empty bottle, several socks, and create a tug toy.) Freezing a plastic bottle of water can keep a puppy cool on very hot days, they like to lie right next to them.
• Pizza pizza! If you have a high-energy dog who enjoys problem solving, offer him the empty, closed box after you’ve ordered a pizza (take out the paper that is sometimes in the bottom). As long as your dog is not the type to eat what he shreds, this is a safe, fun way to tire him mentally and physically under your supervision. And when he’s finished, what remains of the box will fit in the trash much easier (most places don’t allow recycling of pizza boxes). Toss a handful of dog treats into the box before you close it so he can hear and smell the goodies inside. The short video clip shows an older puppy’s first time with a pizza box: first I surprise him with it for coming when called, then he tears around with it, rips it, and makes the goodies come out and eats them. When I decide not to add more treats, he turns the box into a fetch toy, and then finishes by ripping it up some more. He is tired by the end.) Providing this kind of outlet for your dog’s normal mental and physical energy needs will help prevent him from wreaking havoc with your patience and possessions.

Finally, you can make a terrific, low-cost tug toy from a pair of old jeans. Just cut the legs off and knot them every 8 inches or so. Or you can cut the legs into strips and braid the strips, with knots on each end, for a super tough, long-lasting toy. I found a pair of high-waisted jeans (I swear I haven’t worn them in years!) in that closet I cleaned out, and they are now destined to become tug toys.

If you are not a person who likes to make things (or clean out her closet!), not to worry. Green doggie items are now all the rage; you can find eco beds made from recycled soda bottles and leashes, head collars and toys all made from recycled materials. Some of the proceeds from sales of these products go toward helping homeless dogs, so consider having a green dog!